Garment-dyed clothing typically has washed colour tones and naturally a softer finish. Investing in a properly made piece will last, and you will look great wearing it..
Garment dyeing means the colouring of the clothing is applied after they’ve been crafted. Usually, the fabric is dyed in the bulk phase pre-assembly called piece-dying. If you take a fully prepared garment and use the dye typically washed in a pigment colour bath, this creates a washed colour and texture, giving depth as you add unique characteristics to that piece - "no one piece is alike." Often this adds to a vintage look and saves you years of wearing to get there. It sounds easy. However, most companies don't get this process right, we explain why below.
The colours have more depth, and here's why
Because garment dying involves dye settling at different rates in various locations, the colour can add more depth. As a result, the colour might be deeper around the seams or in crevices on the exposed thread and a little more faded in the body, giving it that gently worn-in appearance from the start.
How to style Garment Dyed clothing
Don't bother adding polished black shoes with your beautiful garment-dyed pieces. Tailoring has leaned more casually in recent years, with deconstructed jackets, jersey fabrics, and more suits and sport jackets that wear like sweaters than ever before. You can trace the colour history back to Japan and India, but Europeans have taken the garment dyeing technique into the 21st century. So as you start to layer your outfit and size your new clothes, you can channel your inner Italian and picture yourself on the Almalfi coast tossing your shirt on the seaside.
We want to see you in loafers, oxfords, low rise sneakers. Consider pastels or like-minded fabrics under your main pieces. Keep an eye on other soft tones you might already have kicking around your closet.
Tailoring: If you’ve finally grabbed yourself a Garment Dyed suit or sports jacket, it's an excellent opportunity to layer a knit polo or sports shirt with no tie. Consider a merino wool crew neck sweater featured here or a tee. As you can see, it's straightforward to layer, mix, and match your Garment Dyed outfits. That's the point - if you invest well in your clothing, it gets easier from here. Like most things regarding style, if you invest in higher quality pieces, people can tell, and that is true when it comes to Garment dyed clothing; it is not created equal.
The benefits of Garment Dyed clothing
One of the primary advantages is that it will feel like your old favourite shirt or sweater. The item arrives softer and more worn-in - the washing process is now doubled; compared to the standard Piece-dying fabric process. With this garment dying, you won't have to worry about your item shrinking after the first wash because it happens early in the production process. You can find some saturated and colourful options, but it is by far our favourite choice in washed vintage looks. It's a subtle nod to knowing your clothing is also truly one of a kind.
It's nice to know that Garment dying allows for less fabric waste. There is no re-dyeing a piece-dyed garment to change or optimize colours. Garment Dying can be done in small runs, allowing smaller, unique companies to take advantage of the method. It also helps with inventory management. So pat yourself on the back.
Key pieces that every guy should own
The easiest way to add this to your wardrobe is a classic polo tee or crew neck sweater shown in our video. You are probably already familiar with them and have the wardrobe to start mixing and matching, so grab those now.
As you plan your next destination wedding outfit or event, a casual jacket or suit is an excellent option for travel. This is where a jersey fabric leans even more into the casual aesthetic but also travels nicely in your weekender or garment bags on flights. Change your knit polo underneath into a crisp white shirt, and you will quickly transform your jacket.
Where to buy Garment dyed clothing, brands to buy and look out for
Many brands offer Garment Dyed clothing - if you invest in a good piece, tailoring is where you want to do it. The more intricate the garment, i.e. the more seams and higher the fabric quality - the more complex the process becomes. Dyes can have trouble penetrating around seams and other nuanced areas of the fabric. Also, it gets difficult for companies to create the colour they want on various fabric types. The length of dyeing, temperature and other variables add to the complexity of getting it right and being consistent. Each variety of cloth is treated differently, utilizing specific dyeing baths, processes, and blends that have been exhaustively investigated for each colour/fabric combination.
But few do it as well as the Italians; Luigi Bianchi Mantova and their L.B.M 1911 line are a perfect start. This is where you will find the best value for the price from an Italian company and fashion-forward fabric choices. But there are other great companies like The GIGI and Boglioli, and of course, the inspiration for this video is Gran Sasso.
Final thoughts
Garment-dyed clothing is a great way to add unique style to your wardrobe giving new pieces the rumpled elegance of vintage. It’s an innovative way to transform the feel and finish that upends the typical manufacturing process. At the same time, it’s a delicate art form like making gin; this is not something to try at home.
Not everything is created equal; get down to your local tailor shop, seek out some vintage-inspired pieces, and get them in your hands. As the companies above have mastered this process, it's wonderful to feel a perfectly crafted jacket made from a soft fabric - you won't believe its tailoring.
Enjoy.
Watch the video here.